Saturday, 8 June 2013

Predator-fish.Offensive but magnificent!

Channas (Snakehead)

Rainbow Snakehead - Channa bleheri


Species name: Channa bleheri
Synonym: Channa bleheri
Common name: Rainbow Snakehead
Family: Channidae
Order: Perciformes
Class: Actinopterygii
Maximum size: 20 cm / 8 inches
Environment: freshwater
Origin: Endemic to the Brahmaputra River basin, Assam, India
Temperament: Aggressive
Company: Channa bleheri (Rainbow Snakehead) should not be kept with fishes that are much smaller then themselves.
Water parameters: Temperature 22-28˚C / 72-82˚ F; pH 6-7.5
Aquarium setup: Channa bleheri (Rainbow Snakehead) is due to it’s size on of the most suitable snakehead species for aquariums. They should be kept in large planted aquarium tanks with open areas and hiding places. They need surface access to be able to get the air the need to survive.
Feeding: Channa bleheri (Rainbow Snakehead) accepts most living and frozen food. Also accept most other meaty food.
Breeding: Channa bleheri (Rainbow Snakehead) can be breed in aquariums. The males are larger then females of the same age. You can se the pair starting to swim closer and touch each other approximately two days before the spawning. The eggs float and are guarded by both parents. This species secretes a mucus on their heads that the fry feed on. The fry doesn’t need this mucus to survive but grows faster if they are left with their parents and allowed to eat it

Channa bleheri - Rainbow Snakehead picture

Rainbow Snakehead - Channa bleheri picture

Piranhas

Pygocentrus Nattereri-Red Bellied Piaranha

Classification: Characidae. 
Subfamily: Serrasalminae
Distribution:This species is very widespread in nature, having been recorded from Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana, Brazil, Peru, Bolivia, Paraguay, Argentina and Uruguay. It occurs in the drainages of several major rivers including the Amazon, Rio Paraguay, Rio Paraná and Rio Essequibo, as well as numerous smaller systems.
Habitat: Inhabits rivers, tributaries, creeks, areas of flooded forest, lakes and pools. It’s particularly common in the famous Pantanal wetlands of southwestern Brazil.
Maximum Standard Length: 12″ (30cm)
Aquarium Size: 48″ x 18″ x 15″ (120cm x 45cm x 37.5cm) – 200 litres. Suitable for a shoal of subadult fish.
Maintenance: Sandy substrate, plants and bogwood to form areas of cover, plenty swimming space. Lighting should be dimmed.
Water Conditions: Temperature: 24 – 26°C (75 – 79°F)
pH: 6 – 7
Hardness: Up to 18 °gH but prefers softer water
Diet: An opportunistic and omnivorous feeder. Gut analyses of wild fish have shown it to consume not only other fish, but also crustaceans, insects, plant matter and even small reptiles. Meaty foods such as prawn, whitebait, mussels, lancefish etc, thought to be omnivorous in the wild but rarely accepts non meaty foods in captivity.
Behaviour and Compatibility: Can be kept with other red bellies and other fish from the pygocentrus genus, subject to a large enough aquarium being provided. There is always an element of risk to this as, even in an established group, there is still the potential for aggression. If a fish were to be injured, it could then become a target and be eaten by the other fish.
Sexual Dimorphism: Not sexually dimorphic
Reproduction: Difficult but red bellies have been bred in home aquaria. A large tank of 72″x24″x24″ is needed and it is best to have shoal of approximately six fish from which a pair will hopefully form The fish go very dark when inbreeding condition. The pair will split off from the group and excavate a pit in which spawning occurs.
Hundreds of fry are produced in each spawning and can be fed on newly hatched brineshrimp once they are free-swimming. Fry are cannibalistic and the larger fry will inevitably eat the smaller ones. Unless there is sufficient space to house all the fry, this is an effective way of controlling the size of the brood and ensuring only strong fish survive.
Notes: Many people who keep red bellies are disappointed to find that they do not live up to their reputation as vicious man-eaters. In fact, red bellies are a fairly timid fish and will spend much of their time lurking under cover. As mentioned, they prefer an aquarium with hiding places and low lighting levels. If this is provided, then the fish are likely to be more active as they will feel more secure in their surroundings. Keeping them in a shoal of at least four fish will also help overcome their timidity.
While it is true that red bellies are wary of humans, the same is not true of potential tankmates. Some piranha owners successfully keep fish such as plecostomus catfish or even small tetras, like neons, with their red bellies. This is not recommended and in most cases, the tankmates will be eaten, even if they have lived together happily for a lengthy period of time.
Red bellies are not fussy eaters and will readily accept the foods listed above and more. Non-fish based foods like chicken and other meat can be fed but in strict moderation, as they are not really the ideal diet for piranhas. Bear in mind that all these foods are highly polluting and any uneaten food should be removed as soon as possible. It is not necessary, or desirable, to feed live fish to piranhas. Many owners turn to live fish if their piranha refuses to eat dead food but with perseverance, all red bellies can be weaned off live fish. Dead food should be offered on a daily basis and removed if not eaten. Eventually, the fish’s survival instinct will kick in and it will begin to accept the dead food. Increasing the temperature and boosting the water flow in the tank can also help encourage a stubborn fish to eat as it boosts the metabolism.
There is also a yellow bellied variant of p. nattereri which is sometimes (incorrectly) called pygocentrus ternetzi but it is not distinct species. Similarly there is speculation that the fish we believe to be p. nattereri may in fact be pygocentrus altus but further study is needed.
There are currently only three scientifically recognised pygocentrus species; nattereri, caribe and piraya.


JJPhoto

JJPhoto

Characins

Hydrocynus goliath
Giant Tigerfish

Classification: Alestiidae
Distribution: Tanzania and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
Habitat: Most often found in large rivers and lakes, including Tanganyika.
Maximum Standard Length: A truly monstrous 84″ (210cm). It’s unlikely to reach this size in captivity but assume 48″ as a conservative estimate of eventual size.
Aquarium Size: Hardly worth considering, but somewhere in the region of 15,000 litres may just about suffice!
Maintenance: There is no need for any decor except perhaps a sandy base due to the speed and power of these fish. Water should be of the highest quality and well-oxygenated. It is a very active swimmer and therefore requires an absolutely enormous aquarium.
Water Conditions: Temperature: 75-82°F (24-28°C) - pH: 6.5-7.5
Hardness: 10-25°H
Diet: It is a piscivore by nature and many sources state that it will only feed on live fish. This is not true and it can be weaned onto whitebait and other dead foods fairly easily.
Behaviour and Compatibility:
Should be kept alone, although juvenile fish do shoal. There are reports of it being kept with Loricariids, cichlids etc. but these are usually young fish being kept with larger tankmates. Anything smaller than the tiger fish may be ripped to pieces without prior warning.
Sexual Dimorphism: Unknown.
Reproduction: Not achieved in aquaria.
Notes: A voracious piscivore this species is perfectly designed for its lifestyle. It is very streamlined and muscular and has one of the most amazing sets of teeth of any freshwater fish. These are dagger-shaped and interlock, meaning the fish can rip chunks out of its prey. The teeth are visible even when the animal’s mouth is closed, which makes for a fearsome sight.
It is one of the world’s most infamous game fish and specimens weighing over 100 pounds have been recorded.


We cannot stress strongly enough that this is a species totally unsuited to aquarium life. Alarmingly, it is becoming easier to acquire, with small specimens showing up quite frequently in dealer’s tanks over the last few years. When small, it makes an interesting and undeniably impressive addition to a large aquarium but, bearing in mind its enormous adult size and the potential dangers associated with the maintenance of such a fearsome predator, we recommend it is avoided. Tank maintenance is incredibly dangerous with adult fish easily being able to sever a man’s hand. The other thing to consider is what you will do with the fish once it begins to approach 3 or 4 feet in length. It is sad when so many suitable aquarium species are available that some of these wonderful predators will be consigned to an early death.





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